Selfie sticks were banned – the animals might think they were weapons. (So were walking aids and umbrellas, for the same reason. It was the selfie stick embargo I really liked though). We had to walk as quietly as we could along the jungle path through a steamy tangle of tall trees and creepers. We were told to speak in whispers (a challenge for some people, apparently); if the animals hear loud noises they’re likely to keep away, or maybe even feel threatened and attack… There was birdsong and rustling in the undergrowth and look! that mass of foliage up there in the trees  – an orang utan nest.

We were on our way to the feeding station at the Seminggoh rehabilitation centre in Sarawak, home to 17 of these stunning creatures. They roam the forest reserve and, if the fruiting season is over and they can’t find enough to eat, they swing on over to their open air dining room where food is provided twice a day. The Ranger explained that the animals we saw were born in the reserve, which was set up over 20 years ago to train young orphaned or captured orang utans so they can survive in the wild. Richie, the alpha male, didn’t turn up the day we were there (better things to do, no doubt). He was bought (by a Mr Richie) when he was a tiny skinny little thing kept in a cage; he now heads the group, a couple of potential rivals having been packed off to another reserve to set up their own families.  Reserves like this are increasingly important as the Borneo forests are being replaced by palm oil plantations, and orang utans may even be hunted, as they like to eat the young palm oil tree shoots.

Photos courtesy of Nicki Cullen

How complicated, that whole debate about economic development versus protection of the natural environment. And in the meantime, for us, what a privilege to spend an hour looking at these magnificent animals, with their very distinct personalities: a couple of show-offs (mind you I’d show off too, if I could do acrobatics like this), one laid back Grande Dame, watching us watching her, a fraught young Mum who swung off after that naughty baby and  brought it back before it went too far…

Unforgettable.